Welcome to Antananarivo, Madagascar’s vibrant capital city perched in the central highlands. Known locally as “Tana,” this bustling metropolis blends French colonial architecture with traditional Malagasy customs, creating a unique urban landscape set against rolling hills. With a history dating back to the 17th century as the capital of the Merina kingdom, Antananarivo offers travellers an authentic glimpse into Madagascar’s rich cultural heritage while serving as the perfect gateway to explore the island’s unparalleled biodiversity.

Whether you’re captivated by the red-tinted buildings climbing the city’s hillsides, eager to explore nearby rainforests, or simply wanting to immerse yourself in the friendly local culture, Antananarivo offers an unforgettable starting point for your Malagasy adventure.

When to Visit Antananarivo

Climate & Seasons

Antananarivo enjoys a temperate climate due to its elevation of approximately 1,300 meters (4,265 feet). The city experiences two distinct seasons:

• Dry Season (April to October): The ideal time to visit, with mild temperatures averaging 14-22°C (57-72°F), clear skies, and minimal rainfall. July and August are particularly pleasant but can be cool in the evenings, so pack layers.
• Rainy Season (November to March): Characterized by afternoon thunderstorms, higher humidity, and temperatures averaging 16-26°C (61-79°F). January and February see the heaviest rainfall and occasional cyclones that can disrupt travel plans.

Best Time to Visit Antananarivo

May to September offers the most reliable weather for exploring both the city and surrounding areas. This period combines comfortable temperatures with minimal precipitation, making it ideal for outdoor activities and photography. Tourist numbers peak in July and August, coinciding with European summer holidays.

October and April represent excellent shoulder season months with fewer crowds and good weather, though brief rain showers may occur.

Festivals & Events in Antananarivo

• Independence Day (June 26): Antananarivo comes alive with parades, music, and celebrations marking Madagascar’s independence from France in 1960.
• Famadihana (July-September): The famous “turning of the bones” ceremony, where families honor their ancestors by exhuming and rewrapping their remains in fresh silk shrouds. While primarily a private family event, some communities welcome respectful visitors.
• Donia Music Festival (August): A celebration of Malagasy music and culture with performances from across the island.
• Madajazzcar (October): Madagascar’s premier international jazz festival featuring local and international artists performing at venues throughout the capital.

Getting Around Antananarivo

Getting to Antananarivo

By Air: Ivato International Airport (TNR) is Madagascar’s main gateway, located approximately 16km from the city center. Direct flights connect Antananarivo with major hubs including Paris, Johannesburg, Nairobi, and Mauritius through airlines such as Air France, Air Madagascar, Ethiopian Airlines, and Kenya Airways.

Airport Transfers: Pre-arranged hotel shuttles are recommended for safety and convenience. Alternatively, official airport taxis (recognizable by their beige color) charge approximately 40,000-60,000 Ariary (€8-12) to the city center. Always negotiate the fare before departing.

Getting Around Antananarivo

Taxis: Standard taxis are affordable and plentiful. Short trips within the city center cost around 10,000-15,000 Ariary (€2-3). Always agree on the fare before starting your journey.

Taxi-Be: These colorful minibuses serve as public transportation along fixed routes throughout the city. While incredibly affordable (around 400 Ariary/€0.10 per journey), they can be crowded and confusing for first-time visitors.

Car Rentals: Several agencies offer vehicles for rent at the airport and in the city center. A valid international driving permit is required. Given the challenging road conditions and confusing city layout, hiring a car with a driver (around €40-50 per day) is recommended for those unfamiliar with driving in Madagascar.

Walking: The historic Upper Town (Haute-Ville) can be explored on foot, though be prepared for steep hills and uneven pavements. Exercise caution when walking after dark, particularly in unfamiliar areas.

Ride Apps: Heetch (similar to Uber) operates in Antananarivo and provides a convenient alternative to traditional taxis.

Where to Stay in Antananarivo

Luxury Accommodations in Antananarivo

Hôtel Le Louvre: A sophisticated 5-star property in the business district offering elegant rooms, a rooftop restaurant with panoramic city views, and a spa. Doubles from €140.

Le Palissandre Hôtel & Spa: Centrally located with traditional Malagasy décor, this upscale hotel features spacious rooms with balconies overlooking the city, an outdoor pool, and excellent wellness facilities. Doubles from €110.

Hôtel Colbert: Housed in a colonial-era building in the heart of Upper Town, this historic property offers refined accommodations with modern amenities and an excellent French restaurant. Doubles from €120.

Mid-Range Accommodations in Antananarivo

Hôtel Au Bois Vert: Located near the airport, this peaceful retreat features comfortable rooms set within lush gardens, a pool, and reliable services. Doubles from €65.

Sakamanga Hotel: A charming boutique hotel in the city center with individually decorated rooms featuring local artwork, a garden restaurant, and helpful staff. Doubles from €50.

Le Relais des Plateaux: Convenient for late arrivals or early departures, this airport hotel offers comfortable accommodations, a restaurant, and shuttle services. Doubles from €60.

Budget-Friendly Stays in Antananarivo

La Varangue: A small guesthouse with basic but clean rooms and a lovely garden terrace offering city views. Doubles from €30.

Madagascar Underground: A friendly hostel popular with backpackers featuring dormitory beds (€10) and private rooms (from €25), plus a communal kitchen and organized tours.

Le Coin des Voyageurs: Simple but clean rooms in a central location with a helpful owner who can arrange excursions. Doubles from €25.

Where to Eat & Drink in Antananarivo

Traditional Malagasy Cuisine

La Varangue: Housed in a colonial mansion, this atmospheric restaurant serves refined Malagasy cuisine including zebu steaks and seafood. Main courses from €10-15.

Kudeta Garden: A beautiful garden setting where you can sample traditional dishes like romazava (meat and greens stew) and ravitoto (pork with cassava leaves). Main courses from €8-12.

Chez Mariette: An authentic local restaurant serving home-style Malagasy dishes at affordable prices. Try their vary amin’anana (rice with leafy greens) and sausages. Main courses from €3-6.

International Options

La Rhum Riz: Offering a blend of French and Malagasy flavors in an elegant setting. Known for excellent seafood and locally-sourced ingredients. Main courses from €10-15.

Le Café de la Gare: Located in a restored colonial railway station, serving French-inspired dishes and excellent pastries. Main courses from €8-12.

Sakamanga Restaurant: International menu with vegetarian options in a bohemian setting adorned with local art. Main courses from €6-10.

Local Markets & Street Food

Analakely Market: The city’s main market where you can sample street food like mofo gasy (Malagasy bread), koba (peanut and rice flour dessert), and fresh fruits.

Andravoahangy Market: A bustling food market where locals shop. Try grilled brochettes (meat skewers) and sambos (savory fried pastries).

Cafés & Nightlife

Café de la Gare: Historic setting with excellent coffee and pastries.

Sakafo Lounge: Modern café offering specialty coffees and light meals.

Le Grill du Rova: Rooftop bar with spectacular sunset views over the city.

Pandora Night Club: Popular venue for dancing with local and international music.

What to Do & See in Antananarivo

Historical & Cultural Attractions

Royal Hill of Ambohimanga: A UNESCO World Heritage site 24km from the city centre, this sacred hill was home to Madagascar’s royalty from the 16th to 19th centuries. Featuring royal compounds, burial sites, and magnificent views. Entrance fee: 10,000 Ariary (€2).

Rova of Antananarivo: The former royal palace complex crowning the highest hill in the city. Though largely destroyed by fire in 1995 and partially restored, it remains significant and offers panoramic views. Entrance fee: 10,000 Ariary (€2).

Andafiavaratra Palace: The former prime minister’s palace now houses a museum with artifacts rescued from the Rova fire. Entrance fee: 5,000 Ariary (€1).

Prime Minister’s Palace: A pink colonial building housing government offices but worth viewing from the outside.

Cathedral of Andohalo: An impressive 19th-century cathedral with distinctive twin spires.

Museums & Art Galleries

Musée de la Photo: Showcasing historical photographs of Madagascar. Entrance fee: 5,000 Ariary (€1).

Lisy Art Gallery: Contemporary Malagasy art in a tranquil setting.

Is’Art Galerie: Modern art space hosting exhibitions, workshops, and cultural events.

Markets & Shopping

Marché Artisanal de La Digue: The city’s main handicraft market offering woodcarvings, textiles, spices, and souvenirs.

Antananarivo Souvenir Market: Located near the lake, this market specializes in tourist items like embroidered tablecloths, vanilla, and gemstones.

Centre Fihavanana: Fair-trade shop selling high-quality handicrafts from across Madagascar.

Parks & Natural Attractions

Lemurs’ Park: A conservation centre 22km from the city housing nine lemur species in a natural setting. Entrance fee: 40,000 Ariary (€8).

Tsimbazaza Zoo and Botanical Gardens: Home to various lemur species, reptiles, and endemic plants. Entrance fee: 10,000 Ariary (€2).

Lake Anosy: A heart-shaped lake in the city center with a monument to Malagasy soldiers who died in World War I.

Day Trips from Antananarivo

Andasibe-Mantadia National Park

Located 150km east of Antananarivo (3-4 hour drive), this rainforest park is home to the famous indri lemur, known for its distinctive calls. Guided tours available from €50-80 per person.

Ambohimanga

The aforementioned UNESCO site makes for an excellent half-day trip from the capital. Consider combining with a visit to artisan villages like Ambatomanga. Transportation and guide: approximately €30-40.

Antsirabe

A charming colonial-era spa town 170km south of Antananarivo, known for its rickshaws, thermal baths, and gemstone workshops. Full-day trip costs approximately €60-80 with private transportation.

Ampefy

Just 120km west of the capital, this volcanic region features spectacular geysers and waterfalls including the Lily Waterfall and Geysers of Andranomandroatra. Full-day trip from €60.

Practical Information for first time visitors in Antananarivo

Safety & Security

Antananarivo requires standard urban precautions:

• Avoid displaying valuables and exercise particular caution after dark
• Use official taxis rather than walking at night
• Stay alert in crowded areas, particularly markets
• Keep photocopies of important documents
• Register with your embassy upon arrival

The city center and tourist areas are generally safe during daylight hours.

Currency & Banking

The local currency is the Malagasy Ariary (MGA):

• ATMs are available in the city center and shopping malls but may have withdrawal limits
• Major hotels and upscale restaurants accept credit cards (primarily Visa)
• Bring Euros or US Dollars to exchange at banks or official bureaux de change
• Keep small denomination notes for taxis and markets

Health & Medical

• Drink only bottled or purified water
• Use insect repellent, particularly during the rainy season
• Consider antimalarial medication (consult your doctor before travel)
• Comprehensive travel insurance with evacuation coverage is strongly recommended
• Pack a basic medical kit including diarrhea remedies

Communication

• Local SIM cards are available at the airport and in city shops (Telma, Orange, and Airtel)
• Most hotels and cafés offer Wi-Fi, though connection speeds may be slow
• The country code for Madagascar is +261

Etiquette & Cultural Tips

• Greetings are important; a friendly “Salama” (hello) is always appreciated
• Ask permission before photographing people
• Dress modestly when visiting religious sites
• When invited to a home, a small gift is customary
• The concept of “mora mora” (slowly, slowly) characterizes the relaxed Malagasy approach to time

Sustainable Tourism

Support sustainable tourism initiatives in Antananarivo:

• Choose accommodations with environmental policies
• Buy directly from artisans rather than mass-produced souvenirs
• Respect wildlife and natural areas
• Use refillable water bottles where safe water refill stations are available
• Consider carbon offsetting your flight

Antananarivo reveals itself slowly to those willing to look beyond first impressions. While the city’s infrastructure challenges and poverty can initially overwhelm visitors, its rich history, vibrant markets, and friendly residents offer authentic cultural experiences rarely found in more polished destinations. As the gateway to Madagascar’s extraordinary biodiversity, Tana deserves more than just a quick stopover.

Take time to wander the winding streets of the Upper Town, savour the blend of culinary influences, and appreciate the resilience and creativity of the Malagasy people. From this hillside capital, the incredible natural wonders of the world’s fourth-largest island await your discovery.