Nestled in Madagascar’s central highlands at an elevation of 1,500 metres, Antsirabe (which means “where there is much salt“) is Madagascar’s third-largest city and a charming colonial retreat known for its thermal springs, rickshaws, and laid-back atmosphere. Founded by Norwegian missionaries in 1872, this city retains much of its colonial architecture and offers visitors a refreshing escape from the tropical heat experienced in other parts of the island.

Often called the “Malagasy Vichy” due to its numerous thermal baths and springs, Antsirabe combines French colonial influence with traditional Malagasy culture to create a distinctive destination that deserves more attention from international travellers.

Getting to Antsirabe

Located approximately 170 kilometres south of Antananarivo (Madagascar’s capital), Antsirabe is accessible through several transportation options:

• By Taxi-Brousse: These shared minivans are the most common method of transport between cities in Madagascar. The journey from Antananarivo takes 3-4 hours and costs around $5-8 per person.
• Private Car Hire: For more comfort, private cars with drivers can be arranged in Antananarivo for $50-80 one-way.
• Guided Tours: Many tour operators include Antsirabe in their itineraries when exploring central Madagascar, offering transport and guided experiences.

Best Time to Visit Antsirabe

Antsirabe enjoys a mild climate year-round thanks to its elevation:

• May to October (Dry Season): The most pleasant time to visit with clear skies, minimal rainfall, and temperatures ranging from 10°C to 23°C.
• November to April (Rainy Season): Expect afternoon showers and slightly warmer temperatures. Still viable for travel, but some rural roads may become difficult to navigate.

Where to Stay in Antsirabe

Luxury Accommodations in Antsirabe

• Hotel des Thermes: This historic grand hotel dating from 1896 offers colonial charm, beautiful gardens, and access to thermal spa treatments. The renovated rooms combine vintage elegance with modern comforts. $120-160 per night.
• Couleur Café: A boutique hotel set in a colonial-style building with individually decorated rooms, lush gardens, and excellent French-Malagasy fusion cuisine. $90-120 per night.

Mid-Range Accommodations in Antsirabe

• Chambres du Voyageur: Family-run guesthouse with comfortable rooms, a beautiful garden, and a warm atmosphere. Owner Madame Sylvie offers excellent local insights. $40-60 per night.
• Le Green Park: Modern hotel with spacious rooms, reliable amenities, and a good restaurant serving international and Malagasy dishes. $50-80 per night.

Budget Accommodations in Antsirabe

• Chez Billy: Simple but clean rooms in the city centre, with a friendly atmosphere and communal areas where travellers can exchange tips. $15-25 per night.
• Résidence Madalief: A social enterprise guesthouse where proceeds support local education projects. Basic but comfortable rooms and an authentic experience. $20-30 per night.

Where to Eat in Antsirabe

Fine Dining

• La Table des Hautes Terres: Located within Hotel des Thermes, this restaurant offers refined French cuisine with Malagasy influences in an elegant setting. Multi-course dinners range from $20-35 per person.
• Le Pousse-Pousse: Named after the local rickshaws, this restaurant serves beautifully presented French-Malagasy fusion dishes using locally sourced ingredients. Main courses $15-25.

Casual Dining

• Chez Jenny: A local institution serving hearty Malagasy specialties like romazava (beef stew with greens) and ravitoto (pork with cassava leaves). Meals $8-12.
• La Résidence Sociale: This restaurant doubles as a training facility for disadvantaged youth and serves excellent French and Malagasy dishes. Supporting a good cause while enjoying quality food. Meals $10-15.

Street Food and Quick Bites in Antsirabe

• Marché d’Antsirabe: The central market is filled with food stalls serving mofo gasy (Malagasy bread), sambos (samosas), and fresh tropical fruits. Snacks from $1-3.
• Hotely Gasy: These simple local eateries offer the most authentic Malagasy cuisine. Look for places filled with locals serving rice with laoka (various meat and vegetable side dishes). Full meals from $3-5.

What to Do in Antsirabe

Cultural Experiences

• Pousse-Pousse Tour: Explore the city in traditional hand-pulled rickshaws while learning about colonial history and architecture. $5-10 for a one-hour tour.
• Ateliers Artisanaux: Visit numerous handicraft workshops where artisans create intricate pieces from recycled materials, including toy cars from tin cans, embroidered tablecloths, and semi-precious stone products. Many workshops welcome visitors for free; souvenirs $5-30.
• Sabotsy Market: The lively Saturday market offers an authentic glimpse into local life, with farmers bringing produce from surrounding villages. Free to wander.

Natural Attractions

• Lac Andraikiba: A beautiful crater lake just 7km west of town. Perfect for picnics and gentle hikes around the perimeter. Transport by pousse-pousse costs around $10 round trip.
• Lac Tritriva: This mysterious deep blue crater lake, surrounded by legends, is located 17km from the city. The dramatic scenery makes it worth the journey. Entrance fee $3, transport $15-25 round trip.
• Thermal Baths: Experience the town’s famous hot springs at Hotel des Thermes or the public thermal bath centre. Treatments range from $5-30 depending on luxury level.

Day Trips

• Betafo: This picturesque village 22km away offers beautiful landscapes of rice fields, volcanic lakes, and traditional architecture. A taxi for the day costs around $40-50.
• Antsokay Arboretum: Located on the road to Tuléar, this botanical garden showcases Madagascar’s unique southern flora, particularly endemic spiny forest species. Entrance fee $8.
• Rural Highlands: Arrange a guided walk through the terraced rice fields and small villages surrounding Antsirabe to experience authentic rural Malagasy life. Half-day guided tours $20-30 per person.

Outdoor Activities

• Hiking: The volcanic landscapes around Antsirabe provide excellent hiking opportunities. Local guides can be arranged through hotels for $15-25 per day.
• Cycling: Rent bicycles to explore the city and nearby countryside at your own pace. Rental costs approximately $8-12 per day.
• Horseback Riding: Several establishments offer riding excursions through the highlands surrounding the city. Two-hour guided rides cost around $30-40.

Shopping

• Craft Markets: Antsirabe is famous for its crafts, particularly miniature bicycles and cars made from recycled materials. The main craft market next to the train station offers exceptional souvenirs.
• Semiprecious Stones: The region is known for its geological wealth. Shops around the city sell polished stones and jewelry made from local materials like quartz, amethyst, and rose quartz.
• Textile Workshops: Look for high-quality embroidered tablecloths, napkins, and clothing items made by local artisans.

Practical Information for first time visitors to Antsirabe

Local Transportation

• Pousse-Pousse: These colorful hand-pulled rickshaws are Antsirabe’s iconic transport method. Short trips within the city center cost $1-2.
• Tuk-Tuks: These motorized three-wheelers are increasingly common for longer distances within the city. Trips cost $2-4.
• Rental Cars: Available from some hotels and local agencies. Expect to pay $30-50 per day plus driver fees if required.

Money Matters

• Madagascar’s currency is the Ariary (MGA)
• Limited ATMs available in the city center accept international cards
• Credit cards accepted only at upscale hotels and restaurants
• Cash is king for most transactions

Health and Safety

• Antsirabe is generally safe for tourists
• Drink only bottled or purified water
• Basic medical facilities are available at the local hospital
• Bring any specialized medications you might need

Communication

• Limited but improving Wi-Fi available in most mid-range and luxury accommodations
• Local SIM cards with data plans can be purchased in town (Telma, Orange, and Airtel are main providers)
• French is widely spoken; English less common outside tourist establishments

Unique Experiences in Antsirabe

• Take a cooking class: Learn to prepare traditional Malagasy dishes like romazava (meat stew) and ravitoto (pounded cassava leaves with pork). Classes available through some guesthouses for $15-25.
• Enjoy the thermal waters: Experience the healing properties of the natural hot springs that gave the city its fame. Public baths cost $3-5.
• Visit zebu markets: If your visit coincides with the cattle market day, witnessing the trading of Madagascar’s iconic humped cattle provides cultural insights into rural economy.
• Star-gazing: The clear highland air makes Antsirabe excellent for viewing the southern hemisphere’s night sky. Some hotels offer evening stargazing sessions.

Responsible Tourism Tips

• Support local artisans by purchasing directly from workshops rather than through intermediaries
• Consider homestay options to ensure tourism money benefits local families
• Use water responsibly, as despite the hot springs, clean water is still precious
• Learn a few words of Malagasy to connect with locals (like “Manao ahoana” for hello and “Misaotra” for thank you)
• Ask permission before photographing people

Antsirabe may not feature on every Madagascar itinerary, but those who make the journey to this highland gem discover a refreshingly temperate retreat that beautifully blends colonial history, creative craftsmanship, and the warm hospitality that Madagascar is renowned for. Whether soaking in thermal waters, exploring by pousse-pousse, or venturing into the volcanic landscapes beyond, Antsirabe rewards visitors with authentic experiences away from the island’s more travelled tourist paths.