Luxor, the ancient city of Thebes, stands majestically on the banks of the Nile River in Upper Egypt, approximately 670 kilometres south of Cairo. This extraordinary destination is rightfully called the “world’s greatest open-air museum,” housing nearly a third of all ancient monuments worldwide within its boundaries. Home to roughly 1.3 million residents, Luxor seamlessly blends its glorious pharaonic past with contemporary Egyptian life, creating an atmosphere where 4,000-year-old temples neighbour bustling markets and modern hotels.

The city is divided by the life-giving Nile River into two distinct areas: the East Bank, where the living once dwelt and modern Luxor thrives today, and the West Bank, the ancient realm of the dead where pharaohs were laid to rest in elaborate tombs. Unlike other Egyptian cities, Luxor’s entire identity revolves around its spectacular archaeological treasures, from the colossal Karnak Temple Complex to the mysterious Valley of the Kings, where Tutankhamun’s tomb was discovered in 1922.

Though tourism forms the backbone of Luxor’s economy, the city maintains an authentic Egyptian character through its vibrant souks, traditional felucca boats drifting along the Nile, and the daily call to prayer echoing from ancient minarets. For travellers seeking to walk in the footsteps of pharaohs whilst enjoying modern comforts, Luxor offers an unparalleled journey through time.

When to Visit Luxor?

Best Time to Visit

The optimal time to visit Luxor is during the cooler months from October to April, when daytime temperatures range from a comfortable 22-28°C (72-82°F). During these months, exploring outdoor archaeological sites becomes far more pleasant, with clear blue skies and minimal rainfall creating ideal conditions for sightseeing and photography.

Seasonal Breakdown

Cool Season (November-February): This is peak tourist season with the most comfortable temperatures, ranging from 15-25°C (59-77°F). Hotel rates are at their highest, but the weather is perfect for extensive outdoor exploration. January can be surprisingly chilly in the evenings, so pack layers.

Warm Season (March-May): Pleasant temperatures of 20-32°C (68-90°F) make this an excellent time to visit with fewer crowds and better hotel deals. April and May offer the perfect balance of comfortable weather and reasonable prices.

Hot Season (June-October): Temperatures soar to 35-45°C (95-113°F), making outdoor activities challenging during midday hours. However, this is the low season with significantly reduced accommodation costs and fewer tourists. Early morning and evening activities are still enjoyable, and air-conditioned interiors provide relief.

Shoulder Seasons: March and October offer the best value, with good weather, moderate crowds, and reasonable prices.

How to Get to Luxor?

By Air

Luxor International Airport (LXR): Located just 6 kilometres east of the city centre, this modern airport serves as the gateway to Upper Egypt’s treasures.

International Flights: Direct connections from major European cities, including London, Paris, Frankfurt, and Amsterdam. Many charter flights operate during peak season.

Domestic Flights: Multiple daily flights from Cairo (1.5 hours), Alexandria, and Sharm el-Sheikh via EgyptAir, Air Cairo, and Nile Air.

Airport Transfer: Taxis cost around $15-20 to the city centre, whilst hotel shuttles are available for $25-30 per person.

By Land

From Cairo: The 670-kilometre journey takes approximately 8-10 hours by road via the scenic Nile Valley route, passing through Minya and Assiut.

By Train: First-class sleeper trains run nightly between Cairo and Luxor (10-12 hours), offering a romantic if lengthy journey along the Nile. Day trains take 9-11 hours with comfortable air-conditioned carriages.

By Bus: Several companies operate comfortable coaches from Cairo, Hurghada, and Sharm el-Sheikh. The journey from Cairo takes 9-11 hours and costs around $15-25.

By River

Nile Cruise: The most scenic approach, with multi-day cruises from Aswan (3-4 days) or week-long journeys from Cairo. These floating hotels offer unparalleled views of riverside temples and traditional villages.

Felucca Sailing: Traditional sailing boats offer day trips or overnight journeys, providing an authentic Nile experience that hasn’t changed in centuries.

Getting Around in Luxor

Taxis: Abundant and affordable, with fares starting from $2-5 for city centre trips. Always negotiate the price beforehand or insist on using the meter.

Uber/Careem: Available in Luxor with reliable service and transparent pricing, typically 20-30% more expensive than local taxis.

Bicycle Rentals: An excellent way to explore the city, with rentals available for $3-5 per day. Many hotels provide bicycles free of charge.

Horse-Drawn Carriages (Caleches): Traditional and atmospheric, particularly popular for romantic evening rides along the Nile Corniche. Expect to pay $10-15 per hour.

Feluccas: Essential for crossing to the West Bank or leisurely Nile sailing trips. Ferry services run regularly for about $0.50 per person.

Motorbikes: Scooter rentals are available for confident riders, offering flexibility for independent exploration at $15-20 per day.

Walking: The East Bank city centre is compact and walkable, with most hotels, restaurants, and the main souk within easy walking distance.

Top Attractions and Things to Do in Luxor

East Bank Archaeological Sites

Karnak Temple Complex: The world’s largest ancient religious site, covering 100 hectares with construction spanning 2,000 years. The Great Hypostyle Hall, with its 134 towering columns, represents one of humanity’s greatest architectural achievements. Don’t miss the evening Sound and Light Show ($25-35).

Luxor Temple: Connected to Karnak by the ancient Avenue of Sphinxes, this beautifully preserved temple glows magnificently when illuminated at night. Built primarily by Amenhotep III and Ramesses II, it showcases the evolution of ancient Egyptian architecture.

Luxor Museum: Housing exceptional artefacts from local excavations, including stunning statues from Luxor Temple and treasures from Tutankhamun’s tomb. The museum’s modern presentation brings ancient Egypt to life ($8 entrance fee).

Avenue of Sphinxes: The recently restored 2.7-kilometre ceremonial road connecting Karnak and Luxor temples, lined with over 1,000 sphinx statues. This magnificent processional way offers insight into ancient Egyptian religious ceremonies.

West Bank Necropolis

Valley of the Kings: The eternal resting place of pharaohs for over 500 years, housing 63 decorated tombs including that of Tutankhamun. The standard ticket includes three tombs, with additional fees for special tombs like Tutankhamun’s ($27) and Ramesses VI’s ($15).

Temple of Hatshepsut (Deir el-Bahari): This architectural marvel, built for Egypt’s most successful female pharaoh, rises dramatically from the desert cliffs in three terraced levels. The temple’s unique design and historical significance make it unmissable.

Valley of the Queens: Home to the tombs of royal wives and children, featuring some of Egypt’s most beautiful painted decorations. The tomb of Nefertari, considered the “Sistine Chapel of Ancient Egypt,” requires booking ($75).

Colossi of Memnon: These massive 18-metre-tall statues once guarded the entrance to Amenhotep III’s mortuary temple. Famous in ancient times for their mysterious “singing” at dawn, they remain impressive guardians of the Theban necropolis.

Medinet Habu: Ramesses III’s beautifully preserved mortuary temple complex, often called the “second Karnak” due to its scale and intricate decorations depicting naval battles and royal ceremonies.

Modern Attractions and Experiences

Nile River Activities: Felucca sailing at sunset offers magical views of both banks, whilst luxury dahabiya cruises provide multi-day exploration of the river. Hot air balloon rides at sunrise ($45-65) reveal the scale of Luxor’s archaeological treasures from above.

Traditional Souks: The covered markets near Luxor Temple overflow with spices, textiles, jewellery, and handcrafted souvenirs. The perfume shops offer custom scent blending using traditional methods.

Banana Island: A peaceful Nile island accessible by felucca, perfect for picnics and experiencing rural Egyptian life away from the tourist crowds.

Where to Stay in Luxor

Luxury Hotels

Sofitel Winter Palace Luxor ($180-280 per night): This legendary Victorian palace, opened in 1886, hosted Howard Carter when he discovered Tutankhamun’s tomb. The hotel seamlessly blends historic grandeur with modern luxury, featuring lush gardens overlooking the Nile.

Al Moudira Hotel ($220-350 per night): An architectural masterpiece on the West Bank, this boutique hotel showcases Islamic design with hand-painted domes, intricate tilework, and peaceful courtyards. Each room is uniquely decorated with antiques and local crafts.

Sonesta St. George Hotel Luxor ($120-200 per night): Centrally located with panoramic Nile views, this modern hotel offers comfortable rooms, multiple restaurants, and a rooftop pool. The hotel’s archaeological tours are particularly well-regarded.

Steigenberger Nile Palace ($100-160 per night): A contemporary hotel with spacious rooms, extensive facilities including a spa and multiple pools, and easy access to major attractions. The breakfast buffet is exceptional.

Mid-Range Hotels

Pavillon Winter Luxor ($60-90 per night): Part of the Winter Palace complex but more affordable, offering colonial charm with modern amenities. The riverside location and mature gardens create a peaceful atmosphere.

Iberotel Luxor ($45-75 per night): Modern hotel with comfortable rooms, good facilities, and a central location. The rooftop restaurant offers excellent views of the Nile and surrounding temples.

Eatabe Luxor Hotel ($40-65 per night): A newer hotel with contemporary design, clean rooms, and professional service. The location provides easy access to both the souk and major attractions.

Nile Palace Hotel ($35-55 per night): Family-run hotel with character, featuring traditional Egyptian hospitality and home-cooked meals. The rooftop terrace is perfect for evening relaxation.

Budget Accommodation

Bob Marley Peace Hotel ($15-25 per night): Popular backpacker favourite with basic but clean rooms, helpful staff, and a social atmosphere. The rooftop restaurant serves decent food at reasonable prices.

Shady Hotel ($12-20 per night): Simple accommodation with essential amenities, friendly service, and bicycle rental. The location near the train station is convenient for budget travellers.

Al Gezira Hotel ($18-30 per night): West Bank location offering proximity to the Valley of the Kings and other necropolis sites. Basic but clean rooms with optional air conditioning.

Venus Hotel ($10-18 per night): Ultra-budget option with dormitory-style rooms and shared bathrooms. The communal areas encourage interaction with fellow travellers.

Best Areas to Stay

East Bank – Corniche: Prime location with Nile views, walking distance to major attractions, and numerous dining options. Higher prices but maximum convenience.

East Bank – City Centre: Good value with easy access to souks, restaurants, and transport. Slightly inland but still very accessible.

West Bank – Al-Gezira: Cheaper accommodation closer to the Valley of the Kings and other necropolis sites. More peaceful but requires daily ferry rides to the East Bank.

West Bank – Qurna: Traditional village setting with authentic atmosphere and rock-bottom prices. Best for adventurous travellers seeking cultural immersion.

Food and Dining in Luxor

Local Specialities

Ful Medames: Egypt’s national dish of slow-cooked fava beans, typically served with eggs, cheese, and fresh vegetables for breakfast. Street vendors serve it hot with Egyptian bread.

Koshari: A satisfying mix of rice, lentils, macaroni, and chickpeas topped with crispy onions and spicy tomato sauce. This vegetarian dish represents Egyptian comfort food at its finest.

Molokhia: A nutritious soup made from jute leaves, often served with chicken or rabbit. The distinctive green colour and unique flavour make it a local favourite.

Mahshi: Vegetables like courgettes, aubergines, and vine leaves stuffed with herbed rice and meat. This dish showcases the Mediterranean influences on Egyptian cuisine.

Baklava and Kunafa: Sweet desserts perfect for ending a meal, with the honey-soaked pastries providing a delicious contrast to savoury dishes.

Fresh Nile Fish: Grilled tilapia and other river fish, often served with rice and seasonal vegetables. The proximity to the Nile ensures exceptional freshness.

Top Restaurants

1886 Restaurant – Sofitel Winter Palace ($35-50 per person): Fine dining in elegant Victorian surroundings, serving international cuisine with Egyptian touches. The wine list is extensive, and the service impeccable.

Marsam Hotel Restaurant ($25-35 per person): Rooftop dining with spectacular views of Luxor Temple, serving excellent Egyptian and international dishes. The sunset views are particularly memorable.

Al Sahaby Lane Restaurant ($15-25 per person): Hidden gem serving authentic Egyptian cuisine in a traditional setting. The mixed grill and stuffed pigeon are exceptional.

Miyako Restaurant ($20-30 per person): Surprising Japanese restaurant offering fresh sushi and teppanyaki in the heart of Luxor. A welcome change from Egyptian cuisine.

Snack Time ($8-15 per person): Popular local restaurant serving generous portions of Egyptian favourites at reasonable prices. The atmosphere is casual and friendly.

Cafés and Traditional Venues

Café Mercure: Traditional Egyptian café serving strong coffee, tea, and shisha in a relaxed atmosphere. The outdoor seating provides excellent people-watching opportunities.

Aboudi Coffee Shop: Local institution serving Turkish coffee, fresh juices, and light snacks. The traditional décor and friendly service create an authentic experience.

Metropolitan Café: Modern café with air conditioning, WiFi, and international coffee selections. Perfect for escaping the heat whilst planning your day.

Nile Valley Café: Riverside location with felucca views, serving traditional Egyptian breakfast and mint tea. The morning atmosphere is particularly special.

Bars and Nightlife

Winter Palace Bar: Elegant colonial-style bar with an extensive cocktail menu and live piano music. The atmosphere evokes the golden age of archaeological discoveries.

Cocktail Bar at Sonesta: Rooftop bar with panoramic views of the Nile and surrounding temples. The sunset cocktails are particularly popular.

El Tarboush Bar: Traditional Egyptian bar with local atmosphere and reasonably priced drinks. The cultural experience is as important as the beverages.

Oasis Bar: Casual venue popular with both locals and tourists, serving cold beer and simple snacks. The friendly atmosphere encourages conversation.

Day Trips and Nearby Attractions

Dendera Temple Complex

Located 60 kilometres north of Luxor, this exceptionally preserved temple dedicated to Hathor, the goddess of love and joy, features some of Egypt’s most beautiful ceiling paintings and the famous Dendera Zodiac. The round trip takes a full day ($40-60 including transport and guide).

Edfu Temple

The best-preserved temple in Egypt, dedicated to Horus, the falcon god. Located 115 kilometres south of Luxor, this Ptolemaic temple showcases the evolution of ancient Egyptian architecture. Often combined with Kom Ombo Temple for a full-day excursion ($50-80).

Abydos Temple

The cult centre of Osiris, god of the underworld, is located 150 kilometres north of Luxor. The temple built by Seti I contains some of the finest relief carvings in Egypt, including the famous King List. This is a long day trip for serious archaeology enthusiasts ($60-100).

Esna Temple

A quick stop 55 kilometres south of Luxor, this small temple dedicated to Khnum features excellently preserved reliefs and hieroglyphic inscriptions. Often combined with other southern sites for a half-day trip ($25-40).

Traditional Villages

Qurna Village: Traditional mud-brick village on the West Bank, offering insight into rural Egyptian life. Many residents work in tourism and archaeology, providing authentic cultural experiences.

Karnak Village: A Small community near the temple complex, perfect for experiencing local daily life and traditional crafts. The pottery workshops are particularly interesting.

Practical Information for First-Time Visitors

Currency and Money

Egyptian Pound (EGP): The local currency, with 1 USD approximately equal to 31 EGP (rates fluctuate).

ATMs: Widely available in Luxor, particularly around the East Bank tourist areas. International cards are accepted.

Credit Cards: Accepted at hotels, upmarket restaurants, and tour operators, but cash is preferred for smaller establishments and souks.

Tipping (Baksheesh): An integral part of Egyptian culture. Tip hotel staff $1-2 per day, restaurant staff 10-15%, and guides/drivers $5-10 per day.

Language

Arabic: The official language, though Egyptian Arabic dialect is spoken locally.

English: Widely spoken in tourist areas, hotels, and restaurants. Most guides and tourism workers speak good English.

French and German: Often spoken by tourism professionals due to European visitor numbers.

Basic Arabic Phrases: “Shukran” (thank you), “Inshallah” (God willing), and “Maa salama” (goodbye) are appreciated by locals.

Safety and Security

Tourist Police: Visible presence at major attractions, hotels, and tourist areas. They’re helpful and most speak English.

Personal Safety: Luxor is generally safe for tourists, but standard precautions apply. Avoid walking alone late at night and keep valuables secure.

Scams: Common tourist scams include overcharging, fake papyrus, and aggressive souvenir sellers. Always negotiate prices and shop around.

Health Precautions: Drink bottled water, eat at reputable restaurants, and protect against sun exposure. Stomach upsets are common initially.

Health and Medical Care

Medical Facilities: Several private hospitals and clinics serve tourists, with English-speaking staff available.

Pharmacies: Widely available with many international medications. Pharmacists often speak English.

Vaccinations: No specific vaccinations required, but hepatitis A and typhoid are recommended.

Travel Insurance: Essential for covering medical expenses and potential evacuation.

Cultural Etiquette

Dress Code: Modest dress is expected, especially at religious sites. Cover shoulders and knees, and remove shoes when entering mosques.

Photography: Ask permission before photographing people, and be aware that some tombs charge extra for photography.

Religious Customs: Respect prayer times and Islamic customs. Friday is the holy day, affecting some business hours.

Bargaining: Expected in souks and with taxi drivers. Start at 30-50% of the asking price and negotiate respectfully.

Climate and What to Pack

Hot, Dry Climate: Minimal rainfall year-round, with extreme heat in summer months.

Essential Items: Sunscreen (SPF 30+), wide-brimmed hat, sunglasses, comfortable walking shoes, and lightweight, breathable clothing.

Layering: Evenings can be cool, especially in winter, so pack light layers.

Dust Protection: Sunglasses and a light scarf help protect against occasional sandstorms.

Internet and Communication

WiFi: Available in most hotels, cafés, and restaurants. Quality varies but is generally adequate for basic needs.

Mobile Networks: Good coverage in Luxor with international roaming available. Local SIM cards offer better rates for extended stays.

Internet Cafés: Available throughout the city for those without smartphones or laptop access.

Transportation Tips

Negotiate Everything: Taxi and carriage fares should always be negotiated before starting the journey.

Ferry Timings: Regular ferries connect the East and West Banks, but check final departure times to avoid being stranded.

Group Tours: Often more economical than individual transport, especially for West Bank attractions.

Suggested Itineraries

One Day in Luxor

Morning (6:00-11:00): Hot air balloon ride over the Valley of the Kings, followed by visits to three tombs in the Valley of the Kings.

Midday (11:00-14:00): Temple of Hatshepsut and lunch at a West Bank restaurant.

Afternoon (14:00-17:00): Cross to East Bank for Luxor Temple visit.

Evening (17:00-19:00): Felucca sailing on the Nile and dinner at a riverside restaurant.

Two Days in Luxor

Day 1 – West Bank Focus:

• Morning: Hot air balloon ride and Valley of the Kings (3 tombs)
• Afternoon: Temple of Hatshepsut and Colossi of Memnon
• Evening: Sunset at Medinet Habu

Day 2 – East Bank Exploration:

• Morning: Karnak Temple Complex (allow 3-4 hours)
• Afternoon: Luxor Museum and rest
• Evening: Luxor Temple and Sound and Light Show

Three Days in Luxor

Day 1: West Bank archaeological sites (Valley of the Kings, Hatshepsut Temple, Colossi of Memnon)

Day 2: East Bank temples (Karnak Temple Complex, Luxor Temple, Luxor Museum)

Day 3: Day trip to Dendera Temple or relaxation with Nile activities and souk exploration

One Week in Luxor

Days 1-3: Follow the three-day itinerary above

Day 4: Day trip to Abydos and Dendera temples

Day 5: Edfu and Kom Ombo temples day trip

Day 6: Valley of the Queens, Deir el-Medina, and Ramesseum

Day 7: Relaxation, shopping, and departure preparations

Shopping Guide

What to Buy

Papyrus: Authentic papyrus paintings make beautiful souvenirs, but beware of banana leaf imitations. Shop at reputable outlets.

Spices: Egyptian spices like dukkah, za’atar, and hibiscus tea are excellent gifts. The aroma alone is worth the purchase.

Textiles: High-quality cotton products, traditional galabeyas, and colourful scarves showcase Egyptian craftsmanship.

Jewellery: Silver and gold jewellery, often featuring pharaonic motifs, is popular but requires careful evaluation of quality.

Alabaster: Carved alabaster items, particularly canopic jars and small statues, are traditional Egyptian crafts.

Perfumes: Essential oil perfumes in beautiful glass bottles, though quality varies significantly.

Where to Shop

Luxor Souk: The main market near Luxor Temple offers the widest selection and most authentic atmosphere. Bargaining is essential.

Hotel Shops: More expensive but of reliable quality, particularly for papyrus and jewellery. No bargaining required.

Alabaster Workshops: West Bank workshops offer direct-from-artist purchases and demonstrations of traditional techniques.

Spice Markets: Covered markets specialising in spices, teas, and traditional remedies. The sensory experience is remarkable.

Shopping Tips

Bargaining: Start at 30-50% of the asking price and negotiate respectfully. Walking away often results in better offers.

Quality Checks: Examine items carefully, especially papyrus and jewellery. Authentic papyrus should not crack when bent.

Shipping: Many shops offer international shipping, but carry valuable items personally when possible.

Receipts: Keep all purchase receipts for customs purposes and potential returns.

Conclusion

Luxor stands as Egypt’s crown jewel, offering an unparalleled journey through ancient history whilst providing modern comfort and authentic cultural experiences. Whether you’re marvelling at the engineering genius of Karnak Temple, exploring the royal tombs that have captivated the world, or simply sailing the Nile as countless generations have done before, Luxor creates memories that last a lifetime.

The city’s unique position as humanity’s greatest outdoor museum means that every street corner holds potential discoveries, every sunset over the Nile evokes the majesty of ancient Egypt, and every interaction with local people provides insight into a culture that has flourished for millennia. From luxury resorts to budget guesthouses, from fine dining to street food, from peaceful felucca rides to exhilarating hot air balloon flights, Luxor accommodates every type of traveller whilst maintaining its timeless appeal.

As you plan your visit to this extraordinary destination, remember that Luxor rewards those who come with open minds, comfortable walking shoes, and respect for its ancient treasures. The pharaohs chose this location for their eternal rest, and you’ll quickly understand why – there’s simply nowhere else on Earth quite like Luxor, where the past and present merge in perfect harmony along the banks of the eternal Nile.

Safe travels, and may your journey through ancient Thebes be as magical as the civilisation that created it.